Fun and interesting all around. When you're staying in Kunming, China, most people will tell you to go west to Dali, Lijiang, or Shangri-la. Following their advice I went to Dali and Lijiang. One of China's greatest landscapes, Tiger Leaping Gorge, is an hour or two from Lijiang, so I went there with the intention of returning to Lijiang so that I could go to Lugu Lake. Hiking the gorge so many people said Shangri-la is so beautiful and unlike Kunming, Dali, or Lijiang, so I changed plans and opted to visit Shangri-la before returning to Lijiang and setting out for Lugu Lake (and eventually Chengdu). Shangri-la is indeed beautiful, you're up high enough that the clouds are around you instead of above you. It carried a mysteriousness in its air, unless you're downtown or in the middle of a downpour. Those seem to be the same everywhere in the world. At the hostel I asked about places to go and after a nice chat with the receptionist I learned there is a northern way to Chengdu, full of wilderness, I wouldn't make it to Lugu Lake, but it would be as beautiful if not more. So yesterday I got on a bus and rode for 8 hours through windy mountain roads, muddy dirt and drop-offs most of the way. Got to Xiangcheng, slept, got up took another 4 hour trip to Litang (Lithang in Tibetan), and have been enjoying this city since. The architecture, language, and appearance of everything exudes Tibetan here. Apparently it was an old land/kingdom of Tibet, so it had retained much of its flair. The birthplace of the 7th Dalai Lama is enshrined and preserved just a 10 minute walk off the main street. There seems to be a much more heavy police presence here than any other city I've seen in China--small groups sitting on every other block doing nothing and one group of maybe 6 downtown with riot clubs and riot shields arrayed on the fence behind them. Tomorrow I'll be going to the large and partially ancient (supposedly much was rebuilt after a PLA bombing in the 40's or 50's) monastery and then Monday out to Kangding and more surprises.
I wrote this and then tried to post it at various times in various places. I think it's going to actually go through now because I've made it to Chengdu and am guessing the reason it wasn't going through was China's firewall being nearly impenetrable if you're in a Tibetan region.
Many pictures are up! www.flickr.com/dcpetit, click on Albums for optimal organization.
Many pictures are up! www.flickr.com/dcpetit, click on Albums for optimal organization.
Your report is posted. What a trip you are on! Shangri-la? I'm so jealous. I just wish I could be there with you. More later. Love, dad
ReplyDeleteI was interested in the people you encountered. Leathery farmers? Suave businessmen? Do they laugh a lot? Eat on the trains and buses? Carry livestock with them? Show interest in you? Wear masks to filter the air? That kind of stuff. Stay safe. Love, dad
ReplyDeleteIn the more Tibetan regions the people were definitely darker and sunned. There has usually been a sense of business as usual when I interact with people, though there is often a hint of the unusual, especially when they are able to understand something I say in mandarin. No masks in the countryside, but plenty in Beijing, Xi'an, and other big cities. I will catch a lot of people's eyes if I try when walking down the street. Seems to be a curiosity but very seldom does it seem that anyone stray from their plans
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